Author: Tom

The Driving Force of the PNW

A powerful storm passes over Grand Coulee Dam at sunset.
| Tom

Anyone who has visited the Pacific Northwest (or Pacific Southwest for our Canadian neighbors) knows how much rain is dumped in its Mountain and coastal regions.  It seems that rushing streams are all over the mountains.  After 2 weeks of being in the region, I realized that any venture in the mountains would yield views of beautiful rushing streams.  What was particularly interesting was that even in the desert areas (in the rain shadow of the Cascade Mtns.) water was still a dominant force. 

Most of the Columbia River's water originates in pristine places like this, high in the Rocky Mountains.
Fletcher Falls in British Columbia, is just one of thousands of incredible cascades.
Most of the Columbia River's water originates in pristine places like this, high in the Rocky Mountains.
Large pristine lakes are common "holding ponds" of water before tumbling into the Columbia River.
Powerful steam ships once plied the Columbia Basin's large inland lakes
The Kootenay River emerges from Kootenay Lake at Nelson, BC before dropping into the Columbia River. Its waters come from as far away as the US's Glacier National Park.
The Columbia River departs the Canadian Rockies, flowing into the arid Columbia basin of Eastern Washington.
The Columbia River delivers life-giving water to desert areas of Eastern Washington.
Rapids on the Pend Oreille River, a major tributary to the Columbia.

Massive rivers pierce the desert steppes, bringing life to rain parched areas.  The city of Spokane is at the edge of the desert and sprung to life around the large waterfalls of the Spokane River which drains from the Rocky Mountains.  Even larger, the Columbia River is fed by massive amounts of snowfall from as far away as the Rocky Mountains of British Columbia, Montana, and Wyoming.

Large waterfalls on the River in Spokane fueled the growth of the city.
Rapids on the powerful Spokane River beneath Spokane. The Canyon here is part of an extinct volcano.
Large waterfalls on the River in Spokane fueled the growth of the city.

The combination of the plentiful amount of water in this region coupled with its steep topography is the perfect recipe for the creation of electricity by hydroelectric power plants.  And create electricity, they do, EN- MASSE!  The region is powered mostly by cheap, carbon-free hydropower.  So much electricity is produced here that it is exported to areas as far away as Southern California. 

Boundary Dam, arguably one of the most scenic dams in the US is located along the Canadian border (hence the name). Electricity generated here is transmitted 350+ miles to the City of Seattle.
Massive caverns were bored out of canyon walls to house the machinery at Boundary Dam.
Massive turbines at Boundary Dam allow the plant to supply most of the electricity for the City of Seattle.
Box Canyon Dam on the Pend Oreille River in Northern Washington.
This old powerplant at Metaline Falls powered the production of cement that was used in the Grand Coulee Dam.
Canada's oldest continually-operating machine (seen here in Sandon, BC) is powered by snowmelt.
Chief Joseph Dam, the second largest hydroelectric powerplant in the US is overshadowed by its neighbor, the Grand Coulee Dam.

Not only are the largest hydropower plants in the US found along the Columbia river, but the largest power plant period in North America is here.  Grand Coulee Dam is capable of producing almost 7,000MW which is far larger than any fossil fuel or nuclear developments in North America. As big of a power plant as that it is, electricity generation is not Grand Coulee’s primary mission.  A clue comes in its owner, the US Bureau of Reclamation, whose tagline is “managing water in the West”.  Housed in the dam complex are also massive pumps that push water up onto the Columbia Plateau feeding agricultural irrigation canals.  Name a (non-tropical) vegetable and chances are they grow it in Washington.  The arid air, warm sunny days, and cool nights of Eastern Washington summers are the perfect disease-free climate to grow most crops.

A powerful storm passes over Grand Coulee Dam at sunset.
Grand Coulee Dam, the largest power plant in North America.
Grand Coulee Dam is capable of Generating almost 7,000 MW, making it the largest power plant in North America.

Of all the crops though, we all know Washington for one: APPLES.  The city of Wenatchee bills itself as the “Apple Capital of the World.”  It is clear to see this with apple orchards extending up and down the Columbia basin for 100+ miles in either direction!  We were in the area a few weeks after peak harvest and tandem trailer semi-trucks were still making apple deliveries from the orchards to the numerous packing houses.  In a further quest to grow the perfect apple, the region is a hotbed for agricultural innovation.  In just an hour I saw numerous new apple growing techniques that I hadn’t seen anywhere else.

Apple Orchards (glowing red) straddle both sides of the ‘desert’ Columbia River Valley

And one might ask after all this talk about apples, “how were they?”  Watch this video (turn up your volume) and decide for yourself:

Winter in the Southwest

| Tom

The Sunny Snowy Southwest.  When my family planned this vacation back in the heat of July, I was hopeful that we might get one day of snowfall at the Grand Canyon.  What I didn’t realize was that I should’ve been more careful what I wished for.  Not only did we experience a major snowstorm at the Grand Canyon, but back to back major snowstorms for the entire region.  It was probably one of the snowiest weeks in decades, well that’s at least how the locals were talking about it.

Ponderosa pine forest of the Kaibab Plateau in the snow
Snowy vistas of the Grand Canyon
Snowy vistas of the Grand Canyon
A snowstorm clears in the early morning light.
Elk at Grand Canyon. While not native to Grand Canyon, elk are perfectly adapted to this kind of cold weather.

This to me was great, as after all I love winter weather.  It also meant that the 4×4 pickup truck that I’d reserved months before ended up being the perfect rental choice.

Me with Monument valley in the background
Blazing fresh trails through the snow in Valley of the Gods, Utah.

Now onto the photography, as afterall this is a photo blog.  It turned out that I probably should’ve wished for a little lot less snow as most of my planned shoots had to be scrapped.  That coupled with heavy cloud banks and fog really did cut down on the sightseeing.  The silver lining was that the shots that I did get were incredible!  The storm clouds made for beautiful lighting when the sun was able to shine through.  That and I got to shoot winter scenes of places (like Zion) that rarely get snow.  The snowfall in Zion National Park was so rare that I met a fellow photographer who had driven 3+ hours from Salt Lake City just to capture it.  That coupled with low visitation volumes (and really cheap hotel rooms!) made for a truly memorable trip.  I can’t wait to come back again in winter!

A winter storm arrives at sunset. This lookout in Utah is probably one of my favorite viewpoints anywhere.
Sunset in Kanab, Utah
Navajo National Monument
Natural Bridges National Monument
Sunset in Kanab, Utah
Zion National Park
Zion National Park
Sunset in Kanab, Utah
Zion National Park
Cliff Dwellings in Navajo National Monument
Late day sun on the Vermillion Cliffs
Valley of the Gods all to ourselves…
Ancient Petroglyphs
Valley of the Gods
A snowy field just outside of Zion National Park
Winter scene in Utah
Navajo National Monument
Zion National Park
Zion National Park
Bright Angel Trail. While very white, not so bright [on this day].
The Watchtower at Grand Canyon
We were the only visitors to Valley of the Gods this day

Incredibly great, not very dismal

| Tom

 

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A full moon sets over the Great Dismal Swamp at sunrise.

It’s been a couple years since I first visited the Great Dismal Swamp National Wildlife Refuge.  Since then, my photography has taken off and I pined to capture images of this incredible place at sunrise.  Fortunately for me, the US Fish and Wildlife Service had opened up the most scenic area of the swamp to allow for sunrise photography.

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Pre-sunrise glow paints the sky over lake Drummond. Located at the center of the Great Dismal swamp, Lake Drummond is Virginia’s largest natural lake.

My first shoot was 2 days before Christmas.  I arrived to windless skies which meant that surface of Lake Drummond (Virginia’s largest natural lake) was like a mirror.  The sky was cloudless, which meant that not only did I witness great sky color, but also the setting full moon on the Western horizon.  Having such beautiful conditions in such a special place was like receiving an early Christmas present.

This river otter was spotted in a tributary to the Great Dismal Swamp.

West Texas: Big Landscape Country

| Tom

I’ve dreamt about exploring Big Bend National Park since I was a child.  However, I’d never been able to make it out to this sparsely visited gem of the National Park System.  The reason: the distance and travel time to get there are too great.  Like so many other things in life though, great things come to those who are willing to put in the effort to achieve them.  So, my wife set out on an 8+ hour drive from the DFW metroplex.  I was pleasantly surprised by how easy this drive was though.  What would be a “pull your hair out in frustration” drive on the East coast was a very relaxing and relatively scenic drive across the Texas Hill Country and into the Chihuahuan Desert.   Low traffic volumes, friendly fellow motorists, and 75-80 MPH speed limits made the drive a breeze.  Given the option, I’d rather drive 10 hours across West Tex versus 1 hour on I-95.

Pure white Gypsum sand dunes in Guadalupe Mountains National Park

As previously alluded to, Texas is vast and this vastness is best expressed in it’s 2 phenomenal National Parks.  In addition to incredibly unique flora & fauna (more on that later), the vast views make these places what they are.  Standing in the middle of the desert, it’s easy to see Mountain Ranges from over 100 miles away.  When you couple that visibility with unique rock formations and beautiful plants, you have the ingredients for incredible photographic material.  Of all the places I’ve photographed, I found Big Bend NP the easiest.  Beautiful views could be seen everywhere and interesting foreground plants abounded.  Some of these plants (agaves, ocotillos, and cacti) along with unique animals (tarantulas!) can’t be found anywhere else in the United States.

Alpenglow on Casa Grande in the Chisos Mountains. Beautiful scenery is pervasive in Big Bend.
Sunset on the Rio Grande.
Pre-sunrise glow from atop the Lost Mine Trail in Big Bend National Park.
Alpenglow illuminates the Chisos Mountains, as seen from the Lost Mine Trail in Big Bend National Park.
Beautiful scenery is pervasive in Big Bend.
Beautiful scenery is pervasive in Big Bend.
Sunset on the Rio Grande. Alpenglow illuminates the Santa Elena Mountains in Mexico.
Beautiful scenery is pervasive in Big Bend.
moonrise behind Casa Grande in the Chisos Mountains. Beautiful scenery is pervasive in Big Bend.
Alpenglow on Casa Grande in the Chisos Mountains. Beautiful scenery is pervasive in Big Bend.

But it gets better, Texas is also home to another unique & beautiful National Park, Guadalupe Mountains NP.  Highest Point in Texas is just one of this park’s superlatives.  It also houses one of the world’s largest coral reefs.  Geologists from around the world come to study the ancient reef material that now comprise the rocks that jut 5,000′ from the surrounding desert floor.  The park is also 1 of 2 places in North America where pure white gypsum sand dunes (the same sand that comprises White Sands New Mexico) occur.  The flora here is also impressive: the mountains support the Southernmost Rocky Mountain biome, while the base is Chihuahuan Desert (found mostly in Mexico).  Within a 3 mile hike you can see agaves, cacti, ponderosa pines, maples, and douglas firs.

El Capitan rises 5,000′ above the desert floor in Guadalupe Mountains National Park.
New mexico Agave in the Guadalupe Mountains
Juniper tree in the Guadalupe Mountains
The Guadalupe Mountains seen from afar in the fertile Dell Valley.
El Capitan rises 5,000′ above the desert floor in Guadalupe Mountains National Park.

Happy Independence Day – From the Mountainside Where Freedom Rings

| Tom

 

For a couple of years, I’ve been exploring the wonders of North Fork Mountain in West Virginia’s Allegheny Mountains. This hidden gem, while close to other well known sites has visitation levels far far less. This can be accounted for by it’s difficulty in access coupled with little knowledge of its attractions.

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Panorama Print

Panorama Photograph of West Virginia mountain scene

$175.00

However, North Fork Mountain may be one of the most geologically and biologically significant sites on the East Coast. It is host to Seneca Rocks, nearby caves, 4,000’+ elevations, and and an impressive rock face along it’s spine. Biologically, it supports one of the driest areas East of the Mississippi, in addition to cool weather species commonly found in the in boreal forest and subarctic regions.

 

A diverse forest on top of this “dry” mountain is host to trees that normally don’t associate: Red Spruce, Table Mountain Pine, and Red Oak
A diverse forest on top of this “dry” mountain is host to trees that normally don’t associate: Red Spruce, Table Mountain Pine, and Red Oak
A diverse forest on top of this “dry” mountain is host to trees that normally don’t associate: Red Spruce, Table Mountain Pine, and Red Oak
Reindeer Moss, named because it is typically eaten by reindeer (Caribou) is plentiful here.
A table mountain pine clings to the mountaintop. Winds here regularly exceed 50 mph in the fall, winter, and spring.

For the past couple of years, I have been attempting to capture the beauty of these incredible sites, but it hasn’t been easy. Many of the most unique sites are located 1500′ to 2500′ above the valley floor with little to no road access. If there is road access, then it is often a bumpy dirt track on private property.

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One of the “better” sections of road atop the mountain.

This July 4th I was given access to one of the unique sites by a private land owner. Wanting to take advantage of this, instead of sleeping in, I awoke at 1:00am and made the trek Westward deep into the Alleghenies for sunrise. The drive wasn’t easy, navigating numerous unsigned ‘lightly maintained’ bumpy dirt roads in the dark. However, once I arrived at the summit, I felt like I was awarded with one of the most awe inspiring views on the East Coast. Coupled with that, I had the view all to myself.

With blue and purple mountains off in the distance, the scene seemed like a verse from “America the Beautiful.” This coupled with the vastness of the space, made it feel like I was in the right place to celebrate our freedom on the morning of July 4th.

 

Even with harsh light, hazy skies, and dead blooms this place is gorgeous
Blooming mountain laurel is everywhere in mid-June
Incredible valley beneath.

 

A table mountain pine clings to the mountaintop. Winds here regularly exceed 50 mph in the fall, winter, and spring.
Even with harsh light, hazy skies, and dead blooms this place is gorgeous
Blooming mountain laurel is everywhere in mid-June
Incredible valley beneath.

The Azores: At the end of Europe; At the end of the World

| Tom

The Açores Archipelago was re-discovered 60 years before Columbus discovered North America. At this time, these islands were truly the end of the world as Europeans knew it.  One can only imagine the thoughts of the first explorers when they saw this wild place in the middle of the harsh North Atlantic Ocean.

 

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The Caldera (Caldeirão) on the Island of Corvo is one of the most peaceful and enchanting places in the Atlantic Ocean.

Despite almost 600 years of settlement, this place still feels on the edge.  I feel like if there was a landscape to epitomize “end of the Earth”, this volcanic landscape would be it.  However, there’s more to this than what’s visible on the surface.  The reason for the Azores creation is that it literally is on the edge, of 3 tectonic plates!  The Island chain sits directly on top of the spot where the European, African, and North American plates intersect.   Here it is possible to sail from one island that is in “Europe” and arrive in “Africa” or “North America”.  All of the pushing and pulling of these 3 massive continents is the catalyst for the volcanic activity that is still creating the islands today.  Just 50 years ago, the island chain’s land area increased by 2km2 !

 

 

 

Panorma of the Capelinhos Volcano on the West coast of Faial.
The plateau beneath Pico Mountain looks like the savannas of Africa. Technically it is on the African tectonic plate.
Sunrise glow over the town of Magdalena on the island of Pico. The town was named after Mary Magdalene
Porto Pim Bay on the Island of Faial glows in spectacular storm lighting that is typical on the Azores in Winter
Beautiful black sand beaches are common throughout the archipelago.
The high altitude plateau of Pico is prone to frequent fog. The fog is created by the moisture laden air straight off of the ocean.
Michelle hikes around the rim of the massive volcanic caldera on the Island of Faial.
The mysterious volcano of Pico towers above Porto Bim Bay. often shrouded in clouds, I was fortunate to able to capture images of the mountain on 3 different days.

Because of this “creation”, one could argue that this isn’t the end of the Earth, but the beginning.  Thanks to copious amounts of of moisture, the islands are incredibly green.  In fact they are like gardens, growing citrus fruit and pineapples year round.  Flowers bloom all year, and a deep shade of green pervades every hillside.  The archipelago is so fertile, that most of Portugal’s milk (and excellent cheese!!) is produced here.  Locals even figured out a way to cultivate grapes here and create world-class wines.
So, despite being at the “end of the world”, The Azores are a true paradise.  However, little word has gotten out about this wonderful place, so you might have it all to yourself (as my wife and I did)!

 

 

 

The Caldera (Caldeirão) on the Island of Corvo is one of the most beautiful and enchanting places in the Atlantic Ocean
At the end of Europe is a place that is so far West that it doesn’t look like anywhere else on the continent. In fact, it’s geologically part of North America.
Fishing boats slumber beneath Pico, Portugal’s highest mountain.
Poco Ribeira do Ferreio. Located on the West side of the Island of Flores, the steep cliffs here intercept copious amounts of moisture blowing off of the Atlantic. Moving water is so plentiful on this island, that locals employed numerous watermills to grind locally harvested grains.
Sunrise on the Island of Corvo.
The bountiful waters in the Azores are host to much marine life. So much so, that whale harvesting was once a common activity.
The town of Horta on the Island of Faial
The climate is warm enough and the soil is rich enough to grow pineapples!
An incredibly straight highway crosses the high-altitude plateau on the Island of Pico.
The residents of Pico devised a method of planting grape vines so unique that the area is now a UNESCO world heritage site. The vines are planted horizontally in enclosures to protect them from harsh mid-Atlantic winds. Thanks to the rich volcanic soil and cool summers, the area produces excellent wines.
Beneath Pico da Se is the lush Fazenda valley with the Island of Corvo in the distance. Every morning during the winter, this place is the first place on the North American plate to receive the sun’s rays.

The [Hidden] Gem State

| Tom

Idaho is beautiful state with so many [unexpected] incredible natural sights peppered throughout its vast landscape.  Many of these are sights that you can’t see anywhere else.  Despite possessing so many wonderful places, the state never never feels crowded.  We were even here for the eclipse which was supposedly the largest swell in population during the State’s history.

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Thousand Springs State Park.  Here numerous springs pour down the walls of the Snake River Gorge, creating an oasis in the desert.

In this modern world, where National Park overcrowding has become a regular topic, it’s nice to find a place where one can truly escape to the wilderness for peace and quiet.  Even as someone that regularly goes to remote areas, the peace and quiet was something that I was unprepared for, and it’s EVERYWHERE across this vast state.

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Sunrise from the Seven Devils in Hells Canyon National Recreation Area.

Speaking of National Parks, Idaho has some world class National Parks, National Forests, and State Parks.  Here you can climb through lava tubes, sandboard down the largest freestanding dune in the US, kayak on pristine alpine lakes, climb glacier covered mountains, raft through the largest wilderness in the lower 48, and gaze into North America’s deepest canyon (yes, it’s 2,000′ deeper than the Grand Canyon!).  There’s a reason why they call Idaho the Gem State and not “the potato state.”

View from atop a volcanic cinder cone in Craters of the Moon National Monument
View of the Atlanta Valley in the Boise National Forest
“Moonscape” of Craters of the Moon National Monument
Ruts from wagons climbing a bluff on the Oregon Trail in Hagerman Fossil Beds National Monument
The Malad Gorge
The Great American Total Solar Eclipse over the Sawtooth Mountains as viewed from The Atlanta Ranger Station in the Boise National Forest outside the town of Atlanta
Lava tube in Craters of the Moon National Monument
View of the Sawtooth Mountains just after sunrise at Fishook Creek
The abandoned ghost town of Custer.
Sunset glow in Greylock Mountain in the Boise National Forest
The abandoned ghost town of Custer.
Lupines in the Sawtooth National Recreation Area
Post sunset glow from atop one of the dunes in Bruneau Dunes State Park
Old barbershop in the Historic mining town of Atlanta.
The Minong Crevice Bridge above the River of No Return
Fishook creek in the Sawtooth national Recreation Area
Cows grazing below the Seven Devils Mountains
Seven Devils lake at sunrise in Hells Canyon National Recreation Area
Idaho has the largest contiguous area of National Forest Land in the Lower 48.
Hells Canyon, the deepest canyon in North America (2,000′ deeper than the Grand canyon)
Dunes in the Bruneau Dunes State Park
Ancient petroglyphs in Hells Canyon
Historic homes in Atlanta
White Bird battlefield, where the Nez Perce War began.
Irrigated fields and sand dunes in near-sunset lighting
Bighorn Sheep grazing alongside the River of No Return
Patriotism and freedom run deep in Idaho. A colleague of mine once said, “Idaho is the freest state in the country.” I agree. I love the display of this US Flag and Marine Corps Flag in such a free Western setting. Semper Fi!

Storms Across NoVA

| Tom

 

A rainbow appears above a horse pasture West of Leesburg
Pot of Gold at the end of the rainbow: The Loudoun County Executive Airport
A post-storm sky full of Mamatus Clouds above the rural Loudoun Suburbs, West of Leesburg
Zoomed in, its clear to see the puffy mamatus clouds drooping beneath the thunder head. In the distance is Sugarloaf Mountain and Dickerson, Maryland

This past week saw some of the first thunderstorms of the season for 2017.  Rolling through on Thursday night, they caught most of us off guard, as the forecast wasn’t calling for thunderstorms until the following day.  Fortunately, I had the opportunity to head out, upon learning about them.

This shoot started on the West side of the storm as it departed Western Loudoun County.  Eventually, I ended up at Dulles Airport to shoot “The Iconic Dulles Shot” with lightning in the background.  This was by far my best image of the night.  I love how my D810’s imaging sensor was able to extract dim details from the scene, like the faintly visible mamatus clouds in the sky above.

Virginia’s Northern Neck

| Tom

Boat mored at the Coles Point Marina
Sunset at Coles Point
Early bloom of crocuses at Stratford Hall

It’s a place that had always intrigued me, but until recently I had never been to.  The reason was simple, it’s a peninsula that isn’t on the way to anywhere else.  Which in reality is a good thing, allowing the area to develop a character all it’s own…far from the hustle and bustle of the nearby I-95 corridor/megalopolis.  Here, small towns and sleepy waterways reign supreme, adding to the area’s relaxing atmosphere.  Driving through Reedville, we passed by an oyster and shrimp feast at the local fire hall.  We would’ve stopped had we not just filled up at the Northern Neck Burger Company (seriously some of the best burgers that we’ve had anywhere).

Bald eagles can be easily seen along major highways
Loblolly Pines here are at the extreme northern end of their range
Wiccomico River
The Eastern Shore of the Chesapeake Bay
The “Horsehead Cliffs” at Westmoreland State Park
A Tupelo tree glows brighly in fall colors

Working on my upcoming book, one of the primary things that brought me to the area were the natural sights along the Potomac.  Our first visit was on a gorgeous fall day to the beautiful cliffs at Westmoreland State Park, where it is possible (and encouraged!) to find ancient fossils such as sharks teeth.  In addition to beautiful scenery, the neck has an incredible bald eagle population.  I was able to see and photograph numerous eagles just by driving down major highways.  Outside of Alaska, this was the largest amount of bald eagles that I’ve seen.

Stratford Hall, birthplace of Robert E. Lee
Historic episcopal church
Birthplace of president James Monroe
An abandoned lodge of the Order of Odd Fellows
The area’s former jail
Reedville – one of Virginia’s most important fishing ports
“Pine Pencils”
Historic mill at Stratford Hall

Despite the area being “off the beaten path” of today’s travels, it wasn’t always that way.  The Potomac was once a major shipping thoroughfare for goods grown on the Neck’s rich soils.  The productive agriculture gave root to some of Virginia’s most famous families.  In fact, George Washington, James Monroe, and Robert E. Lee were all born here.  So significant is the area’s history that the New York Times wrote an article about it, titling it “Virginia’s Forgotten History.”

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