Winter in the Southwest

March 15, 2019March 15, 2019 | Tom

The Sunny Snowy Southwest. When my family planned this vacation back in the heat of July, I was hopeful that we might get one day of snowfall at the Grand Canyon. What I didn’t realize was that I should’ve been more careful what I wished for. Not only did we experience a major snowstorm at the Grand Canyon, but back to back major snowstorms for the entire region. It was probably one of the snowiest weeks in decades, well that’s at least how the locals were talking about it.

Ponderosa pine forest of the Kaibab Plateau in the snow

Snowy vistas of the Grand Canyon

A snowstorm clears in the early morning light.

Elk at Grand Canyon. While not native to Grand Canyon, elk are perfectly adapted to this kind of cold weather.

This to me was great, as after all I love winter weather. It also meant that the 4×4 pickup truck that I’d reserved months before ended up being the perfect rental choice.

Me with Monument valley in the background

Blazing fresh trails through the snow in Valley of the Gods, Utah.

Now onto the photography, as afterall this is a photo blog. It turned out that I probably should’ve wished for a little lot less snow as most of my planned shoots had to be scrapped. That coupled with heavy cloud banks and fog really did cut down on the sightseeing. The silver lining was that the shots that I did get were incredible! The storm clouds made for beautiful lighting when the sun was able to shine through. That and I got to shoot winter scenes of places (like Zion) that rarely get snow. The snowfall in Zion National Park was so rare that I met a fellow photographer who had driven 3+ hours from Salt Lake City just to capture it. That coupled with low visitation volumes (and really cheap hotel rooms!) made for a truly memorable trip. I can’t wait to come back again in winter!

A winter storm arrives at sunset. This lookout in Utah is probably one of my favorite viewpoints anywhere.

Sunset in Kanab, Utah

Navajo National Monument

Natural Bridges National Monument

Sunset in Kanab, Utah

Zion National Park

Sunset in Kanab, Utah

Zion National Park

Cliff Dwellings in Navajo National Monument

Late day sun on the Vermillion Cliffs

Valley of the Gods all to ourselves…

Ancient Petroglyphs

Valley of the Gods

A snowy field just outside of Zion National Park

Winter scene in Utah

Navajo National Monument

Zion National Park

Bright Angel Trail. While very white, not so bright [on this day].

The Watchtower at Grand Canyon

We were the only visitors to Valley of the Gods this day

Happy Independence Day – From the Mountainside Where Freedom Rings

July 9, 2018October 11, 2018 | Tom

For a couple of years, I’ve been exploring the wonders of North Fork Mountain in West Virginia’s Allegheny Mountains. This hidden gem, while close to other well known sites has visitation levels far far less. This can be accounted for by it’s difficulty in access coupled with little knowledge of its attractions.

Panorama Print

Panorama Photograph of West Virginia mountain scene

$175.00

However, North Fork Mountain may be one of the most geologically and biologically significant sites on the East Coast. It is host to Seneca Rocks, nearby caves, 4,000’+ elevations, and and an impressive rock face along it’s spine. Biologically, it supports one of the driest areas East of the Mississippi, in addition to cool weather species commonly found in the in boreal forest and subarctic regions.

A diverse forest on top of this “dry” mountain is host to trees that normally don’t associate: Red Spruce, Table Mountain Pine, and Red Oak

Reindeer Moss, named because it is typically eaten by reindeer (Caribou) is plentiful here.

A table mountain pine clings to the mountaintop. Winds here regularly exceed 50 mph in the fall, winter, and spring.

For the past couple of years, I have been attempting to capture the beauty of these incredible sites, but it hasn’t been easy. Many of the most unique sites are located 1500′ to 2500′ above the valley floor with little to no road access. If there is road access, then it is often a bumpy dirt track on private property.

182_3941 - C2 — One of the “better” sections of road atop the mountain.

This July 4th I was given access to one of the unique sites by a private land owner. Wanting to take advantage of this, instead of sleeping in, I awoke at 1:00am and made the trek Westward deep into the Alleghenies for sunrise. The drive wasn’t easy, navigating numerous unsigned ‘lightly maintained’ bumpy dirt roads in the dark. However, once I arrived at the summit, I felt like I was awarded with one of the most awe inspiring views on the East Coast. Coupled with that, I had the view all to myself.

With blue and purple mountains off in the distance, the scene seemed like a verse from “America the Beautiful.” This coupled with the vastness of the space, made it feel like I was in the right place to celebrate our freedom on the morning of July 4th.

Even with harsh light, hazy skies, and dead blooms this place is gorgeous

Blooming mountain laurel is everywhere in mid-June

Incredible valley beneath.

A table mountain pine clings to the mountaintop. Winds here regularly exceed 50 mph in the fall, winter, and spring.

Even with harsh light, hazy skies, and dead blooms this place is gorgeous

Blooming mountain laurel is everywhere in mid-June

Incredible valley beneath.

The Azores: At the end of Europe; At the end of the World

April 13, 2018April 18, 2018 | Tom

The Açores Archipelago was re-discovered 60 years before Columbus discovered North America. At this time, these islands were truly the end of the world as Europeans knew it. One can only imagine the thoughts of the first explorers when they saw this wild place in the middle of the harsh North Atlantic Ocean.

181_7517-Pano-Edit-Edit-Edit-Edit - C — The Caldera (Caldeirão) on the Island of Corvo is one of the most peaceful and enchanting places in the Atlantic Ocean.

Despite almost 600 years of settlement, this place still feels on the edge. I feel like if there was a landscape to epitomize “end of the Earth”, this volcanic landscape would be it. However, there’s more to this than what’s visible on the surface. The reason for the Azores creation is that it literally is on the edge, of 3 tectonic plates! The Island chain sits directly on top of the spot where the European, African, and North American plates intersect. Here it is possible to sail from one island that is in “Europe” and arrive in “Africa” or “North America”. All of the pushing and pulling of these 3 massive continents is the catalyst for the volcanic activity that is still creating the islands today. Just 50 years ago, the island chain’s land area increased by 2km² !

Panorma of the Capelinhos Volcano on the West coast of Faial.

The plateau beneath Pico Mountain looks like the savannas of Africa. Technically it is on the African tectonic plate.

Sunrise glow over the town of Magdalena on the island of Pico. The town was named after Mary Magdalene

Porto Pim Bay on the Island of Faial glows in spectacular storm lighting that is typical on the Azores in Winter

Beautiful black sand beaches are common throughout the archipelago.

The high altitude plateau of Pico is prone to frequent fog. The fog is created by the moisture laden air straight off of the ocean.

Michelle hikes around the rim of the massive volcanic caldera on the Island of Faial.

The mysterious volcano of Pico towers above Porto Bim Bay. often shrouded in clouds, I was fortunate to able to capture images of the mountain on 3 different days.

Because of this “creation”, one could argue that this isn’t the end of the Earth, but the beginning. Thanks to copious amounts of of moisture, the islands are incredibly green. In fact they are like gardens, growing citrus fruit and pineapples year round. Flowers bloom all year, and a deep shade of green pervades every hillside. The archipelago is so fertile, that most of Portugal’s milk (and excellent cheese!!) is produced here. Locals even figured out a way to cultivate grapes here and create world-class wines.

So, despite being at the “end of the world”, The Azores are a true paradise. However, little word has gotten out about this wonderful place, so you might have it all to yourself (as my wife and I did)!

The Caldera (Caldeirão) on the Island of Corvo is one of the most beautiful and enchanting places in the Atlantic Ocean

At the end of Europe is a place that is so far West that it doesn’t look like anywhere else on the continent. In fact, it’s geologically part of North America.

Fishing boats slumber beneath Pico, Portugal’s highest mountain.

Poco Ribeira do Ferreio. Located on the West side of the Island of Flores, the steep cliffs here intercept copious amounts of moisture blowing off of the Atlantic. Moving water is so plentiful on this island, that locals employed numerous watermills to grind locally harvested grains.

Sunrise on the Island of Corvo.

The bountiful waters in the Azores are host to much marine life. So much so, that whale harvesting was once a common activity.

The town of Horta on the Island of Faial

The climate is warm enough and the soil is rich enough to grow pineapples!

An incredibly straight highway crosses the high-altitude plateau on the Island of Pico.

The residents of Pico devised a method of planting grape vines so unique that the area is now a UNESCO world heritage site. The vines are planted horizontally in enclosures to protect them from harsh mid-Atlantic winds. Thanks to the rich volcanic soil and cool summers, the area produces excellent wines.

Beneath Pico da Se is the lush Fazenda valley with the Island of Corvo in the distance. Every morning during the winter, this place is the first place on the North American plate to receive the sun’s rays.

The [Hidden] Gem State

September 4, 2017August 21, 2018 | Tom

Idaho is beautiful state with so many [unexpected] incredible natural sights peppered throughout its vast landscape. Many of these are sights that you can’t see anywhere else. Despite possessing so many wonderful places, the state never never feels crowded. We were even here for the eclipse which was supposedly the largest swell in population during the State’s history.

173_0855-C — Thousand Springs State Park. Here numerous springs pour down the walls of the Snake River Gorge, creating an oasis in the desert.

In this modern world, where National Park overcrowding has become a regular topic, it’s nice to find a place where one can truly escape to the wilderness for peace and quiet. Even as someone that regularly goes to remote areas, the peace and quiet was something that I was unprepared for, and it’s EVERYWHERE across this vast state.

173_5289-C — Sunrise from the Seven Devils in Hells Canyon National Recreation Area.

Speaking of National Parks, Idaho has some world class National Parks, National Forests, and State Parks. Here you can climb through lava tubes, sandboard down the largest freestanding dune in the US, kayak on pristine alpine lakes, climb glacier covered mountains, raft through the largest wilderness in the lower 48, and gaze into North America’s deepest canyon (yes, it’s 2,000′ deeper than the Grand Canyon!). There’s a reason why they call Idaho the Gem State and not “the potato state.”

View from atop a volcanic cinder cone in Craters of the Moon National Monument

View of the Atlanta Valley in the Boise National Forest

“Moonscape” of Craters of the Moon National Monument

Ruts from wagons climbing a bluff on the Oregon Trail in Hagerman Fossil Beds National Monument

The Malad Gorge

The Great American Total Solar Eclipse over the Sawtooth Mountains as viewed from The Atlanta Ranger Station in the Boise National Forest outside the town of Atlanta

Lava tube in Craters of the Moon National Monument

View of the Sawtooth Mountains just after sunrise at Fishook Creek

The abandoned ghost town of Custer.

Sunset glow in Greylock Mountain in the Boise National Forest

The abandoned ghost town of Custer.

Lupines in the Sawtooth National Recreation Area

Post sunset glow from atop one of the dunes in Bruneau Dunes State Park

Old barbershop in the Historic mining town of Atlanta.

The Minong Crevice Bridge above the River of No Return

Fishook creek in the Sawtooth national Recreation Area

Cows grazing below the Seven Devils Mountains

Seven Devils lake at sunrise in Hells Canyon National Recreation Area

Idaho has the largest contiguous area of National Forest Land in the Lower 48.

Hells Canyon, the deepest canyon in North America (2,000′ deeper than the Grand canyon)

Dunes in the Bruneau Dunes State Park

Ancient petroglyphs in Hells Canyon

Historic homes in Atlanta

White Bird battlefield, where the Nez Perce War began.

Irrigated fields and sand dunes in near-sunset lighting

Bighorn Sheep grazing alongside the River of No Return

Patriotism and freedom run deep in Idaho. A colleague of mine once said, “Idaho is the freest state in the country.” I agree. I love the display of this US Flag and Marine Corps Flag in such a free Western setting. Semper Fi!

Storms Across NoVA

May 22, 2017May 22, 2017 | Tom

A rainbow appears above a horse pasture West of Leesburg

Pot of Gold at the end of the rainbow: The Loudoun County Executive Airport

A post-storm sky full of Mamatus Clouds above the rural Loudoun Suburbs, West of Leesburg

Zoomed in, its clear to see the puffy mamatus clouds drooping beneath the thunder head. In the distance is Sugarloaf Mountain and Dickerson, Maryland

This past week saw some of the first thunderstorms of the season for 2017. Rolling through on Thursday night, they caught most of us off guard, as the forecast wasn’t calling for thunderstorms until the following day. Fortunately, I had the opportunity to head out, upon learning about them.

This shoot started on the West side of the storm as it departed Western Loudoun County. Eventually, I ended up at Dulles Airport to shoot “The Iconic Dulles Shot” with lightning in the background. This was by far my best image of the night. I love how my D810’s imaging sensor was able to extract dim details from the scene, like the faintly visible mamatus clouds in the sky above.

The Forgotten Side of the DC Region

November 15, 2016November 18, 2016 | Tom

This past weekend, my wife and I hit the road on a day trip to explore Douglas Point–an unexpected treasure that you likely won’t find in your DC guidebooks.

After scarfing down some delicious local BBQ at George’s BBQ in Indian Head, we arrived to dense mixed forests cloaked in brilliant autumn colors. Despite this beauty, we pretty much had the area to ourselves. Although we were within a 75-mile radius of DC, I could set a tripod in the middle of the road for ten minutes without a passing car. The colors alone are worth the trip, but the real hidden gem is Mallows Bay.

164_2140-c — Kayakers exploring one of the many shipwrecks in Mallows Bay

Mallows Bay is a small bay on the Maryland side of the Potomac River in Charles County, Maryland. It is a unique recreation area resulting, in part, from abandonment and maligned plans. It is regarded as the largest shipwreck fleet in the Western Hemisphere and is described by many as a “ghost fleet”. How did this come to be in the Potomac? More than 100 of the vessels are wooden steamships, part of a fleet built to cross the Atlantic during World War I. However, most of these ships were obsolete upon completion since the war had ended. The US Government sent these vessels to Mallows Bay to be destroyed–and today the bay has evolved into a beautiful recreation area where visitors can tour the remains by walking the shoreline (like we did) or by paddling around the ship graveyard. We will be back with kayaks one day!

Douglas Point, a US Bureau of Land Management site, sits along a quiet road and sports beautiful mixed hardwood and pine forests–a rarity in the DMV region.

We then headed to the Douglas Point Recreation Area, managed by the US Bureau of Land Management (BLM). Although BLM is the largest landholder in the western United States, this is one of only a few sites on the east coast so it was certainly an unusual discovery in Maryland! Originally slated to become a nuclear power plant, public outcry resulted in the local electrical utility abandoning its plan, and eventually in the land’s public acquisition. The recreation area exceeded expectations. In the same afternoon, we toured the ruins of a 17^th century home and walked the sandy Potomac shore in search of fossilized sharks teeth dating back 58 million years (we found one!). Given the beauty of this site, I’m glad that it is now protected from further development.

The Culmination of a Year’s Work

November 9, 2016November 14, 2016 | Tom

A picture of a swamp: it’s not a bad picture, but compared to my numerous other pictures of swamps, it may not look like much at first. However, this piece is the result of over a year’s worth of research, obtaining access to private property, crawling over boulders, trudging through wetlands, and numerous cuts/scrapes/wet boots.

What’s so special about this image is not the composition, lighting, or other photographic qualities. Instead, as I’ve been working on my book about the Potomac River, I’ve been trying to highlight all of the unique aspects of this watershed, namely the plants that call it home. Particularly, I’ve been searching for a naturally growing bald cypress, to demonstrate how the Potomac watershed houses so many unique plant communities.

The bald cypress, is a beautiful tree (used ornamentally in many locations, including in LaFayette Square next to the White House) that grows naturally in the swamps of the Southeastern US. Despite being a hardy plant, its seedlings cannot survive the winters endured North of here.

Sure, I’ve shot much more visually interesting images of this tree in the Great Dismal Swamp and Louisiana Cajun Country, but I want to convey how much the Potomac is at the juxtaposition of the American natural landscape. Travelling down the 302 mile long River is “biologically” equivalent to the 1500 mile journey from the Gulf of Mexico to the Bay of Fundy.

A stand of Loblolly Pines grows on Virginia’s Northern Neck. A tree common to the deep South, it is at the extreme northern edge of its natural range here.

Descending from the upland hardwood forests to the lower wetland forest at Westmoreland State Park in Virginia

A canopy of Tupelo Trees is emblazoned in fall colors.

As The “Green Season” Draws to a Close

September 13, 2016September 13, 2016 | Tom

As a landscape photographer, I enjoy capturing the visual “fruits” of every season. And as much as I love winter weather, I look forward to the annual “greening” that spring provides. While winter landscapes can be beautiful, they can be extremely difficult (and sometimes downright dangerous) to capture. For this reason, summer is one of the best seasons to capture visually appealing landscape photography.

See an interesting scene that you’d like to shoot, but don’t have time that day? – Come back in a week, or wait a month until the lighting conditions are just right, no problem! Unlike in Autumn, where if you come back 2 days later the leaves may be gone, there is a greater degree of flexibility. While fall is without a doubt my favorite season, one miscalculation could make the difference between getting a perfectly lit vibrant shot and something that just looks brown and downright “Meh.” As I had posted on my facebook page, the difference in foliage can affect an image greatly:

With the impending “brownout”, I plan to make the most of the next 2 months and look forward to shooting the vibrantly colored hillsides to come. One thing for sure though, I certainly won’t miss dripping sweat all over my camera equipment!

Louisiana

May 13, 2016May 19, 2016 | Tom

It’s a place that I’ve always heard people talk about visiting, but I’ve never made it a priority to do so. Partially because of the stifling heat and partially because of other people’s accounts of seeing “someone not able to handle their liquor on Bourbon Street.” Added to that were the terrible images that saturated the newscast after the disaster that was Katrina. I never gave the state a fair chance, and I’m here to make things right. Not because I’m sorry; I’m entitled to my own opinions afterall. Instead, it’s because Louisiana is truly a special place. It’s not often that you find a place that has such an incredibly rich culture and such beautiful spaces.

“Sportsmans paradise”, the state motto emblazoned on license plates, is absolutely the truth. The wealth of wildlife in this state is incredible. I can’t recall seeing a place so rich in so many different species of birds (of all sizes colors and varieties!). The state even has it’s own subspecies of black bear, which I didn’t happen to see. Additionally, the wetlands in this state are a true national treasure. Spanish moss draped oaks, cypresses, and tupelos line the waterways creating a natural “cathedral”. What the area may lack in hills/mountains, it more than makes up for in beautiful trees and plants. The area has it’s own iris that adorns the banks of many bayous. -If you have a camera, find someone with a boat – you will be impressed!

Early morning sunlight shinging through the oaks in New Orleans City Park

Sunset at Lake Martin

Louisiana Irises in the Bayou

Louisianans are proud people in part due to their incredibly rich culture. Many people came from incredibly difficult situations with very few materials possessions and made a living for themselves. The state is incredibly prosperous due to its vast energy resources, productive agriculture, and strategic trading location at the mouth of the Mississippi. The state’s vast pride and wealth shines through in it’s numerous structures.

“Born Free” – Many cajuns are fiercely independent…through their struggles they’ve earned it.

Old Louisiana State Capitol

Deep South

Old buildings in the French Quarter

Cornstalk Fence

Typical French Quarter balcony

Oak Alley Plantation

A crescent moon sets over Oak Alley Plantation

The flags that have flown above Louisiana fly above the main hall in the state capitol

“Gotham City” – Refineries line the Mississippi above New Orleans

Oil refineries and other “industrial plantations” have replaced traditional plantations as the main “cash cows” in the area. Louisianans are fortunate to have well paying job opportunities that don’t require a college education.

Speaking of structures, it’s impossible to ignore the area’s numerous churches and cemeteries. Some of the prettiest churches that I’ve seen anywhere are housed here, having been built years ago. The strong faith of the locals is visible to this day…we arrived in Lafayette the day before their new bishop was to be installed. There were local TV news crews and enough flowers to fill a small floral distribution center.

New Orleans’ Jewish Cemetery: one of the more unique cemeteries that I’ve been to

Old Catholic Cemetery surrounded by a Union Carbide chemical plant

In addition to having a strong culture, the people are truly a kind and sociable people. One of the best experiences that I enjoyed while here was shooting alongside a very talented local photographer, Andy Crawford. Two months before visiting Louisiana, I contracted Andy to ask him where I could find some places to shoot some local wetlands. To my surprise, Andy was so happy to help that he volunteered to take a day off of work and take me in his truck/boat all over Southern LA. I was able to experience several areas through the eyes of a local, who shared the same passion for creating great images as me. In addition to picking up new photography skills, I picked up a new friend…That’s something that doesn’t happen everyday and a better takeaway than the great images that I created.