The Azores: At the end of Europe; At the end of the World

The Açores Archipelago was re-discovered 60 years before Columbus discovered North America. At this time, these islands were truly the end of the world as Europeans knew it.  One can only imagine the thoughts of the first explorers when they saw this wild place in the middle of the harsh North Atlantic Ocean.

 

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The Caldera (Caldeirão) on the Island of Corvo is one of the most peaceful and enchanting places in the Atlantic Ocean.

Despite almost 600 years of settlement, this place still feels on the edge.  I feel like if there was a landscape to epitomize “end of the Earth”, this volcanic landscape would be it.  However, there’s more to this than what’s visible on the surface.  The reason for the Azores creation is that it literally is on the edge, of 3 tectonic plates!  The Island chain sits directly on top of the spot where the European, African, and North American plates intersect.   Here it is possible to sail from one island that is in “Europe” and arrive in “Africa” or “North America”.  All of the pushing and pulling of these 3 massive continents is the catalyst for the volcanic activity that is still creating the islands today.  Just 50 years ago, the island chain’s land area increased by 2km2 !

 

 

 

Because of this “creation”, one could argue that this isn’t the end of the Earth, but the beginning.  Thanks to copious amounts of of moisture, the islands are incredibly green.  In fact they are like gardens, growing citrus fruit and pineapples year round.  Flowers bloom all year, and a deep shade of green pervades every hillside.  The archipelago is so fertile, that most of Portugal’s milk (and excellent cheese!!) is produced here.  Locals even figured out a way to cultivate grapes here and create world-class wines.
So, despite being at the “end of the world”, The Azores are a true paradise.  However, little word has gotten out about this wonderful place, so you might have it all to yourself (as my wife and I did)!

 

 

 

Cape Breton Highlands

Jutting out into the North Atlantic Ocean; one of the furthest reaches of North America is also one of its crown jewels.  Here is a place where land meets sea in a way that is unmatched by any place southward.

Forests that are bright green in summer come ablaze in autumn before becoming cloaked in white in winter.  The French were the first to settle this land, eking a living off the bountiful seas teaming with cod and lobsters.  Later came Anglos, who notwd its resemblance to Scotland.  This landmass is where the province Nova Scotia (New Scotland) gets it name from.  And by listening to local accents, one might think that you were still on the other side of the pond.    Today the island hosts the world’s largest Celtic music festival.

Our short stay on the island was focused around the dramatic Western side of the Cape Breton Highlands National park.  Here, the mountains jut 500m out of the sea.  Along with the differing elevations are differences in climate.  Mixed hardwood and spruce Acadian forests cling to the hillsides, while Boreal spruce forests dominate the headlands.  In some places, Taiga dominates, mimicking landscapes found in Labrador and Northern Quebec.

Newfoundland: The Place That Will Remain on My Bucket List

After you visit somewhere, you’re supposed to check it off of your bucket list.  However, every once in a while you find somewhere with so much depth and so much to see that you feel that in order to truly experience it you have to spend at least a month there, seeing numerous sights and getting to know the people who call it home.  That’s how I feel about Newfoundland.

To be honest, it’s a place that I knew very little about.  But, everything that I did know said that the place was incredible.  As a result, when the fall foliage was being stubborn (due to the drought and a warm fall), I rearranged what was supposed to be a Maine vacation to a trip to Nova Scotia and Newfoundland.  We couldn’t have been more pleased with the results.

Arriving off of the ferry in Newfoundland, we were greeted to some of the island’s famous weather of 50km/hr winds, 4 deg. C temps, and rain squalls.  However, the skies began to clear and the island soon revealed it’s glory.  Autumn color had begun to arrive, turning the tundra like “barrens” red and the boreal forests a mix of bright colors.  By the end of the week, bright blue skies abounded and an “Indian summer” was in full swing, helping to usher in even more brilliant autumn foliage.

Typical scene along the Trans Canada Highway along Western Newfoundland. Fall colors had just begun, turning the tundra-like barrens red.
Typical scene along the Trans Canada Highway through Western Newfoundland. Fall colors had just begun.

To an American who’s never seen the island, the best way to describe it is to cross what Maine was in the 1950s with the scenery (and wilderness) of Alaska.  Between the small fishing villages that dot the coast (and produce incredibly delicious seafood!) and the boreal/sub arctic landscapes, this land is a landscape photographer’s dream.  However, there’s more: Newfoundlanders are a wonderfully friendly people with a distinct culture all their own.  While most are proud Canadians, there is a strong sense of independence here, born out of the island’s isolation and the self sufficiency that it requires.

Take away the deciduous trees, brightly colored buildings, and if someone had told me this was Alaska, I would've believed them
Take away the deciduous trees, brightly colored buildings, and if someone had told me this was Alaska, I would’ve believed them

While we spent 5 days on the “rock”, most of it within the confines of the massive sized Gros Morne National Park, there is so much more to see.  Everyday we were out from sunrise to sunset and only saw a small fraction of the island.  And based upon that fraction, I can only imagine what the rest of the island looks like.  For that reason, Newfoundland will remain on my bucket list.  That and I want to come back and see the island in spring/summer when whales, wildflowers, and icebergs (melting off of glaciers in Greenland) abound!

Louisiana

 

It’s a place that I’ve always heard people talk about visiting, but I’ve never made it a priority to do so.  Partially because of the stifling heat and partially because of other people’s accounts of seeing “someone not able to handle their liquor on Bourbon Street.”  Added to that were the terrible images that saturated the newscast after the disaster that was Katrina.  I never gave the state a fair chance, and I’m here to make things right. Not because I’m sorry; I’m entitled to my own opinions afterall.  Instead, it’s because Louisiana is truly a special place.  It’s not often that you find a place that has such an incredibly rich culture and such beautiful spaces.

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“Sportsmans paradise”, the state motto emblazoned on license plates, is absolutely the truth.  The wealth of wildlife in this state is incredible. I can’t recall seeing a place so rich in so many different species of birds (of all sizes colors and varieties!).  The state even has it’s own subspecies of black bear, which I didn’t happen to see.  Additionally, the wetlands in this state are a true national treasure.  Spanish moss draped oaks, cypresses, and tupelos line the waterways creating a natural “cathedral”.  What the area may lack in hills/mountains, it more than makes up for in beautiful trees and plants.  The area has it’s own iris that adorns the banks of many bayous.  -If you have a camera, find someone with a boat – you will be impressed!

Louisianans are proud people in part due to their incredibly rich culture.  Many people came from incredibly difficult situations with very few materials possessions and made a living for themselves.  The state is incredibly prosperous due to its vast energy resources, productive agriculture, and strategic trading location at the mouth of the Mississippi.  The state’s vast pride and wealth shines through in it’s numerous structures.

Speaking of structures, it’s impossible to ignore the area’s numerous churches and cemeteries.  Some of the prettiest churches that I’ve seen anywhere are housed here, having been built years ago.  The strong faith of the locals is visible to this day…we arrived in Lafayette the day before their new bishop was to be installed.  There were local TV news crews and enough flowers to fill a small floral distribution center.

 

In addition to having a strong culture, the people are truly a kind and sociable people.  One of the best experiences that I enjoyed while here was shooting alongside a very talented local photographer, Andy Crawford.  Two months before visiting Louisiana, I contracted Andy to ask him where I could find some places to shoot some local wetlands.  To my surprise, Andy was so happy to help that he volunteered to take a day off of work and take me in his truck/boat all over Southern LA.  I was able to experience several areas through the eyes of a local, who shared the same passion for creating great images as me.  In addition to picking up new photography skills, I picked up a new friend…That’s something that doesn’t happen everyday and a better takeaway than the great images that I created.