The Culmination of a Year’s Work

November 9, 2016November 14, 2016 | Tom

A picture of a swamp: it’s not a bad picture, but compared to my numerous other pictures of swamps, it may not look like much at first. However, this piece is the result of over a year’s worth of research, obtaining access to private property, crawling over boulders, trudging through wetlands, and numerous cuts/scrapes/wet boots.

What’s so special about this image is not the composition, lighting, or other photographic qualities. Instead, as I’ve been working on my book about the Potomac River, I’ve been trying to highlight all of the unique aspects of this watershed, namely the plants that call it home. Particularly, I’ve been searching for a naturally growing bald cypress, to demonstrate how the Potomac watershed houses so many unique plant communities.

The bald cypress, is a beautiful tree (used ornamentally in many locations, including in LaFayette Square next to the White House) that grows naturally in the swamps of the Southeastern US. Despite being a hardy plant, its seedlings cannot survive the winters endured North of here.

Sure, I’ve shot much more visually interesting images of this tree in the Great Dismal Swamp and Louisiana Cajun Country, but I want to convey how much the Potomac is at the juxtaposition of the American natural landscape. Travelling down the 302 mile long River is “biologically” equivalent to the 1500 mile journey from the Gulf of Mexico to the Bay of Fundy.

A stand of Loblolly Pines grows on Virginia’s Northern Neck. A tree common to the deep South, it is at the extreme northern edge of its natural range here.

Descending from the upland hardwood forests to the lower wetland forest at Westmoreland State Park in Virginia

A canopy of Tupelo Trees is emblazoned in fall colors.

Newfoundland: The Place That Will Remain on My Bucket List

October 26, 2016November 10, 2016 | Tom

After you visit somewhere, you’re supposed to check it off of your bucket list. However, every once in a while you find somewhere with so much depth and so much to see that you feel that in order to truly experience it you have to spend at least a month there, seeing numerous sights and getting to know the people who call it home. That’s how I feel about Newfoundland.

To be honest, it’s a place that I knew very little about. But, everything that I did know said that the place was incredible. As a result, when the fall foliage was being stubborn (due to the drought and a warm fall), I rearranged what was supposed to be a Maine vacation to a trip to Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. We couldn’t have been more pleased with the results.

Arriving off of the ferry in Newfoundland, we were greeted to some of the island’s famous weather of 50km/hr winds, 4 deg. C temps, and rain squalls. However, the skies began to clear and the island soon revealed it’s glory. Autumn color had begun to arrive, turning the tundra like “barrens” red and the boreal forests a mix of bright colors. By the end of the week, bright blue skies abounded and an “Indian summer” was in full swing, helping to usher in even more brilliant autumn foliage.

Typical scene along the Trans Canada Highway along Western Newfoundland. Fall colors had just begun, turning the tundra-like barrens red. — Typical scene along the Trans Canada Highway through Western Newfoundland. Fall colors had just begun.

To an American who’s never seen the island, the best way to describe it is to cross what Maine was in the 1950s with the scenery (and wilderness) of Alaska. Between the small fishing villages that dot the coast (and produce incredibly delicious seafood!) and the boreal/sub arctic landscapes, this land is a landscape photographer’s dream. However, there’s more: Newfoundlanders are a wonderfully friendly people with a distinct culture all their own. While most are proud Canadians, there is a strong sense of independence here, born out of the island’s isolation and the self sufficiency that it requires.

Take away the deciduous trees, brightly colored buildings, and if someone had told me this was Alaska, I would've believed them — Take away the deciduous trees, brightly colored buildings, and if someone had told me this was Alaska, I would’ve believed them

While we spent 5 days on the “rock”, most of it within the confines of the massive sized Gros Morne National Park, there is so much more to see. Everyday we were out from sunrise to sunset and only saw a small fraction of the island. And based upon that fraction, I can only imagine what the rest of the island looks like. For that reason, Newfoundland will remain on my bucket list. That and I want to come back and see the island in spring/summer when whales, wildflowers, and icebergs (melting off of glaciers in Greenland) abound!

Early morning lighting on the Tablelands and the South Arm of Bonne Bay in Gros Morne National Park

Coastal boreal forest at Green Point, Gros Morne National Park

Welcome to Canada (Natiaonal Parks)!

Credit goes to my wife who snapped this image while I was charging across this mountain pass.

Humber River in full autumn glory

A local tipped me off to Steve’s Trail at Green Point. We went out 2 nights in a row to catch sunset and were the only ones enjoying this view

The Southern edn of Bonne Bay, which is actually a fjord that (due to its depth) houses subfreezing water that supports arctic marine species

UN, Canadian, and Newfoundland & Labrador flags flying outside of the Gros Morne National Park Visitor’s Center

Bonne Bay at Norris Point.

Trout River Pond

The Tablelands are equally as stunning at sunrise as they are beautiful

The mars like appearance of the Tablelands is due to the mineral rich rocks. The rocks, which are from the earht’s mantle are the only place on the Earth’s surface where the mantle is exposed.

Tools of the trade

Certainly one of the prettier settings for a cemetery…

Tablelands and fall foliage

Woody Point lighthouse overlooking Bonne Bay

Spruce Grouse

Bakers Brook Falls, Gros Morne

Sunrise on the Tablelands from Norris Point

The Arches Provincial Park on the Gulf of St. lawrence

The prettiest picnic table in all of Canada…

Norris Point, NL

The sun’s last rays filtering through the Spruces along Steve’s Trail in Gros Morne

Sunset in Norris Point

Rose Blanche Lighthouse on the Southwestern coast

Blowmidown Falls. There was barely a sign off the highway to the “tree clearing” of a parking lot. I guess this is just “normal” everyday scenery in these parts

As The “Green Season” Draws to a Close

September 13, 2016September 13, 2016 | Tom

As a landscape photographer, I enjoy capturing the visual “fruits” of every season. And as much as I love winter weather, I look forward to the annual “greening” that spring provides. While winter landscapes can be beautiful, they can be extremely difficult (and sometimes downright dangerous) to capture. For this reason, summer is one of the best seasons to capture visually appealing landscape photography.

See an interesting scene that you’d like to shoot, but don’t have time that day? – Come back in a week, or wait a month until the lighting conditions are just right, no problem! Unlike in Autumn, where if you come back 2 days later the leaves may be gone, there is a greater degree of flexibility. While fall is without a doubt my favorite season, one miscalculation could make the difference between getting a perfectly lit vibrant shot and something that just looks brown and downright “Meh.” As I had posted on my facebook page, the difference in foliage can affect an image greatly:

With the impending “brownout”, I plan to make the most of the next 2 months and look forward to shooting the vibrantly colored hillsides to come. One thing for sure though, I certainly won’t miss dripping sweat all over my camera equipment!

Louisiana

May 13, 2016May 19, 2016 | Tom

It’s a place that I’ve always heard people talk about visiting, but I’ve never made it a priority to do so. Partially because of the stifling heat and partially because of other people’s accounts of seeing “someone not able to handle their liquor on Bourbon Street.” Added to that were the terrible images that saturated the newscast after the disaster that was Katrina. I never gave the state a fair chance, and I’m here to make things right. Not because I’m sorry; I’m entitled to my own opinions afterall. Instead, it’s because Louisiana is truly a special place. It’s not often that you find a place that has such an incredibly rich culture and such beautiful spaces.

“Sportsmans paradise”, the state motto emblazoned on license plates, is absolutely the truth. The wealth of wildlife in this state is incredible. I can’t recall seeing a place so rich in so many different species of birds (of all sizes colors and varieties!). The state even has it’s own subspecies of black bear, which I didn’t happen to see. Additionally, the wetlands in this state are a true national treasure. Spanish moss draped oaks, cypresses, and tupelos line the waterways creating a natural “cathedral”. What the area may lack in hills/mountains, it more than makes up for in beautiful trees and plants. The area has it’s own iris that adorns the banks of many bayous. -If you have a camera, find someone with a boat – you will be impressed!

Early morning sunlight shinging through the oaks in New Orleans City Park

Sunset at Lake Martin

Louisiana Irises in the Bayou

Louisianans are proud people in part due to their incredibly rich culture. Many people came from incredibly difficult situations with very few materials possessions and made a living for themselves. The state is incredibly prosperous due to its vast energy resources, productive agriculture, and strategic trading location at the mouth of the Mississippi. The state’s vast pride and wealth shines through in it’s numerous structures.

“Born Free” – Many cajuns are fiercely independent…through their struggles they’ve earned it.

Old Louisiana State Capitol

Deep South

Old buildings in the French Quarter

Cornstalk Fence

Typical French Quarter balcony

Oak Alley Plantation

A crescent moon sets over Oak Alley Plantation

The flags that have flown above Louisiana fly above the main hall in the state capitol

“Gotham City” – Refineries line the Mississippi above New Orleans

Oil refineries and other “industrial plantations” have replaced traditional plantations as the main “cash cows” in the area. Louisianans are fortunate to have well paying job opportunities that don’t require a college education.

Speaking of structures, it’s impossible to ignore the area’s numerous churches and cemeteries. Some of the prettiest churches that I’ve seen anywhere are housed here, having been built years ago. The strong faith of the locals is visible to this day…we arrived in Lafayette the day before their new bishop was to be installed. There were local TV news crews and enough flowers to fill a small floral distribution center.

New Orleans’ Jewish Cemetery: one of the more unique cemeteries that I’ve been to

Old Catholic Cemetery surrounded by a Union Carbide chemical plant

In addition to having a strong culture, the people are truly a kind and sociable people. One of the best experiences that I enjoyed while here was shooting alongside a very talented local photographer, Andy Crawford. Two months before visiting Louisiana, I contracted Andy to ask him where I could find some places to shoot some local wetlands. To my surprise, Andy was so happy to help that he volunteered to take a day off of work and take me in his truck/boat all over Southern LA. I was able to experience several areas through the eyes of a local, who shared the same passion for creating great images as me. In addition to picking up new photography skills, I picked up a new friend…That’s something that doesn’t happen everyday and a better takeaway than the great images that I created.

Andy pulling up the anchor after shootign in lake Maurepas

Early morning skyglow above lake maurepas

Moss dangling from oak branches above Bayou Portage

Andy in lake Maurepas

Louisiana Irises in the Bayou

Winter 2016

Image | April 5, 2016April 6, 2016 | Tom

I’ve hinted in the past that while the vibrant “organic” colors that Spring through Fall bring make for amazing photographs. However, there is something to be said for the simple beauty of winter. After all, the peaceful beauty that freshly fallen snow (let alone the peaceful silence of being out in the snow as it quietly falls) makes for great images.

While winter may have gotten off to a late start here on the East Coast, it made for some great photography: bringing the foggiest December on record to the Mid Atlantic. Then in January, we were treated to a true whollop of snowstorm, bringing 34 inches to my backyard. Some areas of West Virginia saw 40+”! Unfortunately, this much snow made it extremely difficult for me to get to get to scenic locations to photograph, but my new pair of snowshoes got a lot of use for a week 🙂

Finally, we were able to make it up to Canaan Valley in the high Alleghenies of West Virginia for Winter’s last true stand. While not quite as cold or beautiful as the winter of 2015, all-in-all winter 2016 did not disappoint.

Cheers!

-Tom

Blackwater Canyon in West Virginia

Starry night sky above Canaan Valley

Late day sky glow in Canaan Valley

Elakala Falls

Frozen rocks at Great Falls during a cold snap

The sun trying to poke through the clouds on a foggy morning

Reston during the blizzard

I was out during the peak of “blizzard conditions” and was impressed by the amount of snow blowing around

The neighborhood…more snow still had yet to come

Saint Mary’s Wilderness – George Washington National Forest

Bolivar Heights – Harpers Ferry. The mountains were completely obstructed by the fog bank pouring over them

Sunrise in Jefferson County, WV. Due to excessively warm/moist conditions, the grass was abnormally green for late December

Jefferson County, WV

Industrial Grittiness – Halltown, WV

North Landing River Preserve, Virginia Beach

A near full moon over Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge

Abandoned farmhouse – Great Falls, VA

Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge

What American Public Lands Mean to Me

March 23, 2016March 25, 2016 | Tom

When I think back on many of the best moments of my life, several common denominators can be observed. One of the most typical of these is the type of places that these occurred.

My family has always seeked out places of natural beauty for our vacations and other recreational pursuits. I certainly continue this legacy, as I am always heading out to some beautiful place to pursue my latest photographic or hiking pursuit. Since meeting my wife, we have planned vacations that centered around places like this. Lucky for us, some of the most spectacular scenery to be found on terra firma is right here at home and it’s open to us all.

Whether it was combing the surf battered rocks of Oregon’s coast or craining our necks to see the canopy of a virgin redwood forest, most of these moments occured on American public lands. We are fortunate that our country was expanded and settled in a time when awareness and respect for the natural environment wasn’t far off in the future. Even more so that we had visionaries like Gifford Pinchot, Teddy Roosevelt, John Muir, Thomas Moran, and countless others influencing/creating national policy towards our wild treasures.

We hear a lot about what has made our country great in terms of our economy and our tenacious defense of liberty. Our beautiful (and plentiful) public lands are one of the things that sets us apart from other countries. Achievements like creating the world’s first national park and the Wilderness Act of 1964 have made us a worldwide leader in the preservation of earth’s natural treasures.

Below are some of my favorite memories created on our public lands:

View from the Iwa Jima Memorial – Netherlands Carillon

Siuslaw National Forest, Oregon

Looking north along the Allegheny Front

Isabelle Glacier – Roosevelt National Forest

Indian Peaks Wilderness – Roosevelt National Forest

Harpers Ferry National Historical Park

Monongahela National Forest

North Fork Mountain – Monongahela National Forest

Spruse Knob – Highest Point in the Mountain State – Monongahela National Forest

Milky Way over Spruce Knob Lake. Located deep in the mountains, the Allegheny Highlands boast some of the darkest skies in the Eastern US

Shenandoah National Park

Tidal Basin – National Mall & Memorial Parks

Ft. Moultrie – Ft. Sumter National Monument

Charles Pickney National Historical Site, South Carolina

Congaree National Park, South Carolina

C&O Canal National Historical Park

View from the Lincoln Memorial

At the top of Mt. St. Helens – National Volcanic Monument – Gifford Pinchot National Forest

Trail up the South slope of Mt. St. Helens. On my way to the summit, below the treeline

Great Dismal Swamp National Wildlife Refuge

Moonrise over Crater Lake National Park

Blue Ridge Parkway, Virginia

South Umpqua River – Umpqua National Forest, Oregon

The Heart of Chile

Image | January 15, 2016January 19, 2016 | Tom

For week’s I’ve debated on how to sum up/write about the areas of Chile that we visited outside of Patagonia. For a country that stretches 4,300 Km in length, with climates ranging from the driest desert on earth to the third largest glacial ice field on earth, it is hard to sum it up by just visiting two regions.

While we spent nearly 2 weeks exploring some of the best sights that this wonderful country has to offer, I feel that we barely scratched the surface. What I can say is that modern Chile has a lot to be proud of: a stable government, South America’s strongest economy, friendly people, an embrace of their history, wonderful traditions, and great food…There is nothing quite like a Chilean sandwich anywhere else on earth!

I think one of the things that I like the most about Chile is the immense pride that their people have in their country. Driving down any road, there are bright Chilean flags flying outside of just about every house. While at a bar here, the native Chilean bartender was trying to one up his Argentinian coworker by crafting a perfect cocktail. I have to admit he did a good job…It was probably one of the most beautiful drinks I’ve ever drank.

As passionate as Chileans are about their country, they are passionate about religion. It is impossible to talk about the history of Chile without involving Catholicism. The biggest crowds that we saw while in the country were gathered around churches and religious monuments.

We were fortunate enough to experience Chile’s culture in the sprawling capital of Santiago and the nearby coastal city of Valparaiso. Each of these cities is unique and it is easy to tell that Santiago is the economic and political powerhouse of this part of South America.

While Santiago packs in the masses and serves as Chile’s economic & governmental capital, Valparaiso packs in the charm. Some have called it the San Francisco of South America. The great thing about this city is that it has garnered enough attention to preserve the unique buildings, but not enough attention to ruin the unique local culture. Walking down the streets in Valparaiso is like walking through a history museum turned art museum. Photographic opportunities abound around every street corner…

Sunrise in Valparaiso

a full moon rises over Valparaiso’s busy harbor

Patagonia: The Land That [Far] Exceeds Expectations

December 12, 2015April 6, 2016 | Tom

Since I received my first “Patagonia” brand fleece as a little kid, I have been intrigued by the mountains on the clothing brand’s logo. However, I never dreamed I’d have the opportunity to visit this remote land.

Then, two years ago I started researching locations for my wife and me to travel on our next “big adventure” and I was instantly hooked when Patagonia popped up. I spent countless hours since then researching when, where, and how to go. So much so that I began to think, “Is there going to be much more to discover than what I’ve already seen on Google image search?” Luckily, I was wrong and I could not have prepared myself for the land that many say is a true “landscape photographer’s dream.” My wife fell in love with the landscape, too, and she expressed interest in returning before we even left, which certainly says something given the often “less than ideal” weather conditions and many challenges with traveling to and around this remote land.

“Patagonia Logo”. The Fitz Roy Range in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina is basked in alpenglow.

Laguna de Los Tres at the base of Monte Fitz Roy is still frozen in mid-spring

Fickle weather, like the clouds obscuring the mountains sometimes enhances and sometimes detracts from photographs

A lenga forest is illuminated by shifting weather patterns

One of the local churches in El Chalten, Argentina

Lenga Trees create a “primeval forest”

For those who might be unfamiliar with the region, getting to/around there isn’t the easiest of tasks. It took no less than three flights with 15+ hours of total flying time for us to arrive in Punta Arenas from Washington-Dulles International Airport. And, even after arriving at the airport, there were still hundreds of miles to drive between the individual destinations. To make matters more difficult, the wind is so great that it tests the skill of even the best drivers, blowing the car all over the road. The wind literally caused our Toyota Corolla to blow apart, causing me to do emergency roadside maintenance on the side of the road as local drivers whizzed by at 90+ mph (normal cruising speed on the straight Argentine roads). Since the next settlement, let alone gas station, may be more than 150 miles away, pre-planning is a must when visiting the region.

Really really far South…

The Southern Patagonian Ice Field is the world’s largest ice mass outside of Antarctica and Greenland. The glacier in the top right corner is the one that we’d later be hiking on

Arriving in Punta Arenas, it feels like you’re at the end of the world, even without the signs telling you that

Planning out our path atop the Viedma glacier (pictured from above two pictures earlier)

Our rental car with 66,000 kilometers on the odometer of driving down rough Patagonian roads, the bumper (and the rest of the body for that matter) began to fall apart. Like all good car problems, this problem did not manifest itself in town.

Spiky shoes!

Above Leguna de los Tres in Los Glaciares National Park

Chilean border crossing. The part that said “Bienvenidos” (welcome) blew off in high winds. The winds on this day were a typical 70 km/hr

Few restrictions on the wide open Patagonian roads.

The same climatic engine that drives the “less than ideal” weather also creates unimaginable natural lighting. During our trip, we observed some of the most stunning lighting while 70km/hr winds were ripping across the landscape, and keeping a tripod steady, let alone hand-holding a camera, was often challenging in these conditions.

Road in Torres del Paine National Park

Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina

Sunset over El Calafate, Argentina

Modeled hills

Iceberg on Lago Grey in Torres del Paine National Park

Countryside in Chilean Patagonia

“Flagpoled” nire trees shaped by the intense winds in Torres del Paine

Salto Grande in Torres del Paine

A massive forest fire in Torres del Paine left stark scenes like these

Alpenglow highlights the Cuernos Del Paine

Spectacular lighting abounds along the spine of the Andes in Patagonia. This scene was captured at Lago Pehoe in

Fierce winds whip up ocean sized waves on lakes

Even the beer is epic in Patagonia…as delicious as it looks

Cueva del Milodon. ncient peoples inhabited this site, dining on local prehistoric animals such as the milodon skeleton that was discovered here in the mid 1900s

Punta Arenas, Chile: the Southernmost city in continental South America

While most people (including me!) come to Patagonia for the landscapes, the wildlife certainly does not disappoint. My wife commented when driving through the Eastern entrance to Torres Del Paine that it felt like we were on a South American safari. The variety and number of animals in the area was a surprise since many of the animals–including flamingos, rheas, and armadillos–are animals normally associated with warmer climates. This coupled with cold weather animals, like penguins, creates an amazing biodiversity.

Gosslings in Torres del Paine National Park

Guanacos, a type of llama is as common as deer is in North America. Ironically, the native deer species is endangered and extremely rare

Patagonian flamingos in Torres del Paine National Park

Wild horses in the vast steppes of Argentine patagonia

My wife and I have been blessed to travel often during our marriage. Our Patagonian adventure, coupled with the amazing experience we had the week prior in central Chile, certainly made this a trip of a lifetime.

High Allegheny National Park

October 10, 2015January 18, 2017 | Tom

That was the name of the proposed national park along the highest ridgelines of the Mid-Atlantic. As I’ve previously noted, the area truly boasts “national park quality scenery.” The National Park Service actually surveyed the proposed park in 2012 for entry into the system. It’s a truly unique area that in addition to unique geological features boasts a microclimate that supports plants and animals found much further North in Canada. During fall the area comes alive with brilliant colors. Yellow aspen leaves shimmer in the wind, while red maple leaves dominate the slopes of the higher peaks. Brilliant red blueberry bushes hug the ground in the meadows at Dolly Sods.

Blueberry bushes show their autumn colors at Bear Rocks

Looking north along the Allegheny Front

Vast meadows of blueberry bushes at Dolly Sods

View from atop Chimney Rock on North Fork Mountain

While the thought of the area being recognized as a national park excites me, I also have concerns. Chiefly, I worry that increased promotion as a national park would draw hordes of crowds, putting pressure to build more visitor facilities, roads, and more trails in an already sensitive area. Not to mention, there is still a lot of private land in the area, which could prove to be a problem if the area becomes overly popular. “Come buy a condo with a national park view!” I’m not the only one having second thoughts. Local residents became so concerned that Senator Joe Manchin (WV) sent a letter to the National Park Service revoking his support of the park over concerns of access, hunting, and fishing restrictions.

West Virginians want to keep the WILD in “Wild and Wonderful” and I think that that’s great. Much of the land is already protected as congressionally designated wilderness and administered by the US Forest Service. If anything, I’d say that the federally designated wilderness should be expanded to additional existing USFS land. At the same time, existing private land owners will be able to keep their farms, which add to the area’s charm. One of my favorite hikes involved hiking on a public Forest Service trail through a private farm leading to the Roaring Plains Wilderness. The stark combination of the agrarian landscape with rugged wilderness is what makes this area of West Virginia so special.

A second-growth maple forest beneath Dolly Sods is enveloped in fog.

A combination Nor-easter and Hurricane Joaquin created less than ideal conditions atop one of the Eastern US’s highest plateaus

Misty trail in Dolly Sods Wilderness

Forest Service Road 19 adjacent to the Roaring Plains Wilderness

Unbeknownst to me at the time that I took this picture, I hiked the trail in the center of the meadow on my way up to the Roaring plains Wilderness…the trail passes through a farm inbetween the barn and the storage shed